Lipsi (Dodecanese):

Lipsi Town. Copyright: Toth Harald/Dreamstime.com

I travelled to the lovely small Greek island of Lipsi (Lipsoi) back in August 2004. Situated near the far end of the Dodecanese chain between Leros and Patmos I made the transfer from Rhodes in a not especially big wooden boat -pretty much like a fishing boat with seats added. I mention this because the transfer was not especially smooth due to hitting the tail end of Hurricane Charley which had recently caused much damage across the USA (it probaly wasn't connected at all and just a localised storm, but it made for a much better story). With a heady mix of tiredeness and excitement I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of plunging through enormous waves showering the interior of the open boat with spray. I probaly should have taken the situation a bit more seriously especially when it was announced we were pulling into the shelter of a nearby island - only proceeding again after a coastguard helicopter had flown overhead presumably checking whether it was safe for us to continue. I'm pleased to say that after over four and a half hours transfer we reached Lipsi safely. The rep for holiday company Laskerina congratulated us the next day for surviving their longest ever transfer from Rhodes!

By now, the sun had set and armed with a small map set out to find my accommodation. The Calypso apartments are, in reality, barely a five minute walk from the harbour but by the time the road had petered out into a track near the top of the hill I soon realised that my map reading skills needed some work and had to backtrack down the hill. Arrival at the apartments was made all the better by the sight of a cow happily grazing in a field in front of the property. This must be the only small Greek island I have visited where I have even seen a cow let alone had one by my accommodation (daylight later revealed that there was, in fact, a whole herd of them and that the "field" was actually a vegetable patch which the cow had got into before munching its way through the produce).

Setting out in the dark for the essential Retsina and food supplies proved a success when I found a mini market in the maze of small alleys and roads that make up Lipsi Town. Problems only arose when I realised that I didn't have a clue where I was or how to get back to the apartment. This is where I (eventually) worked out my invaluable technique of heading downwards until I reached the harbour front again. Then it all became clear and I spotted the road home (this time avoiding the unwanted excursion to the top of the hill).



Blue seas and sky of Lipsi
Copyright: Serban Enache/Dreamstime

Waking up on the first morning on a new Greek island is always exciting but on Lipsi it was extra special when at 6.00am I woke to the sound of masses of clanging bells. Rushing to the balcony there they were -dozens of goats being herded across the hillside by a man on a horse. I had never seen that many goats before or since and for that Lipsi gets the top Goatiness rating of Astronomic. This spectacle was repeated a number of times during my stay as the goats were moved to new grazing areas. The taverna menus on Lipsi could probaly also get a Goatiness rating of their own but, as a non meat eater, I won't dwell on that!
By comparison the Cockerel Count for Lipsi only rates as a modest medium.

One of the big standout features on Lipsi is the hundreds of small chapels dotted around the island -far more than I have ever seen elsewhere - giving the whole island a rather spiritual feel. Most of these are privately owned and built by families on the island. The spiritual feel came to a head with the annual Festival of Panagia Harou on August 22/23. This religious festival attracts many to the island and the days leading up to it saw ferry loads of arrivals including senior priests from nearby Patmos and even a military band in full uniform (who actually stayed next to me at the Calypso!). On the day a spectacular procession set off from Lipsi Town comprising the band, armed soldiers, priests, islanders, visitors and a good number of tourists drawn into the atmosphere. This makes its slow way uphill to the old church of Panagia Harou for a special service. Even as a non religious person, the whole event was moving and powerful -not least the desperation of a man pushing an (obviously) very ill woman in a wheelchair. Weaving his way through the crowd up the steep hill to reach the front of the procession in order to receive blessings from the priest on arrival at the church.



Another big event of my stay was the Greek Wedding. In town for dinner I came across a big party of people in the main square all eating and drinking at tables that had been laid out. My first thought was that this was another festival event (especially as no bride and groom were visible at that point). On and on the music and singing went late into the night -and then through the night! By early morning I just had to go and see just what was happening and arrived back at the square for the truth to be revealed. The celebrations then continued well into the afternoon until eventually I saw from my balcony the whole party making their way along the road out of town. It was certainly another unique experience for me.



Lovely Lipsi.
Copyright: Serban Enache/Dreamstime

Lipsi has many small coves and beaches most of which can be readily reached by walking either on the main road or using goat tracks. One I especially liked was Katsadia (about 40 minutes walk) which boasts a couple of nice tavernas. Further up the island (about an hour) is Platys Yialos which also has a taverna. Shallow water extends a long way out here which I liked and you may find yourself being joined by a family of ducks which like to swim in the sea. On the way to Platys Yialos there is a road to the left which takes you down steeply to Kimissi beach. From the beach there is a spectacular series of steps carved out of the cliff face leading (eventually) to a small chapel. According to our Laskerina rep this was once the home to an elderly hermit leading a solitary life high up on the cliff.  Certainly in 2004 there were a number of signs of previous habitation there suggesting more than just a good story. Be warned, the steps are steep and tiring both ways and when you get back to the beach the only way out is the steep concrete road heading uphill. You will need plenty of water for that walk!

If my arrival on Lipsi was a stormy one, my departure was a rapid one. With a 6.00am ferry and suitcase pickup at 5.00am I was awoken by a knocking on the door. When I pointed out it was only 4.00am I soon got corrected -my watch had mysteriously lost exactly one hour. That explained why Katsadia beach had emptied of people rather early the previous day and why there had been virtually nobody at the taverna when I went out to dinner! Instead of a leisurely cup of coffee on the balcony and a last look around at the apartment it was a case of throwing stuff in my hand luggage and heading for the harbour. Not the best way to end a lovely two weeks.

Lipsi is a charming small island with lots of great walking to be had -and all those goats. Of course, there may well have been some changes and development since my visit so some research is advised. Lipsi is in my top four Greek islands and one that I would love to revisit one day. Regards, David.