Skopelos (Northern Sporades):

Boats in Skopelos town harbour

Skopelos is one of the group of Northern Sporades islands which also include Skiathos, Alonissos and Skyros. I spent a day on Skopelos in June 2013 whilst staying on Alonissos. It's a short journey of 30 minutes or less and as I had caught the 06.40 Flying Cat fast catamaran I arrived in Skopelos Town (Chora) around 07.00 as the sun was starting to rise.

This proved good light for photographing the harbour from all angles. If you follow the quay to the far right (looking inland) of the harbour you are in a good position to photograph boats and ferries coming and going -just be aware that the larger ferries create some wash which is likely to splash over the end of the quay.

Also on the right is the photogenic church of Panagia tou Pyrgou (pictured) which you can access via a number of steps from the harbour front to get good views over the town. Carry on from the church a little way and there are the ruins of an old castle. 

The old town itself is a maze of narrow alleys and steps with numerous churches and chapels to be seen. The usual adage applies here -if you get lost just head downwards and you'll reach the harbour front sooner or later. 

Skopelos Town from the harbour

Skopelos is, of course, a draw for fans of the 2008 film Mamma Mia! Most of the location filming was done in 2007 mainly at Kastani beach on the West coast. Don't bother looking for the long wooden jetty that features so much in the film  -it was built especially for the film and then dismantled. The other location that fans head for is that church used in the wedding scenes of the film. This is Agios Ioannis at the North East end of the island. Of course, if you are just on a day visit you're probaly not going to have time to get to these but worth noting that there are a number of excursion boat tours that will take you to the various locations. These also operate from Skiathos as well.

Church of Panagia tou Pyrgou on Skopelos

There are plenty of tavernas and shops along the harbour front but not so many as to make it feel overly touristy. Whilst having lunch I had a Greek island first when a funeral procession came past - priests, mourners in black and a grieving, elderly widow. Nobody told us what to do but I was pleased that out of natural instinct every person in the taverna respectfully stood up whilst the procession went past. Needless to say my camera remained on the table. It was one of those moments when getting a picture wasn't important and would have been totally inappropriate.

So Skopelos then, a very pretty old town with lots of churches and interesting buildings and, by all accounts, lots of nice country walks to be had inland. It is certainly well worth a day trip if you are staying on Skiathos or Alonissos and very worthy of consideration as a holiday destination in itself. Regards, David.

Alonissos (Northern Sporades):

Three mules posing by the donkey track

I must admit until I booked my first holiday there in 2012 I had never even heard of Alonissos - despite being a self confessed Greek island lover. A week in September 2012 and two weeks in June this year have put Alonissos right up there in my favourite islands list. Probaly the word "authentic" is the one I am searching for. Unpretentious might be another.

From the harbour at Patitiri (arrival point for most visitors) to the dense pine forests, everything about this lovely island feels slighly understated - the 3000 or so population know what they have here and don't seem to feel the need to shout about it too much. Of course, in season there are some concessions to tourism with a few excursion boats advertising their trips (mainly to the National Marine Park of which Alonissos forms a part) but otherwise that's about it.

15th century chapel at Agii Anargiroi

One of my highlights on both visits was to take the walk to the two small chapels at Agii Anargiroi. From Patitiri take the road to Votsi. Go past the turning on the right that takes you down to the beach and a few minutes later there is a turning on the left signposted for Agii Anargiroi. This is a small road that traverses the island from coast to coast. After about 15 minutes you will see a road on the left signposted for Tsoukalia beach. Turn down that then almost immediately take the smaller track branching off to the right. This is a wonderful walk through a dense pine forest (note the numerous containers attached to many of the trees for collecting pine resin). You will eventually reach a house with a great view down to the coastline framed by olive trees - an excellent spot for photographs (pictured). Pass the house and climb a few steps and you are now on a woodland footpath which will lead you to Agii Anargiroi. The two chapels (one 15th century the other 1940s) are perched right above steep cliffs dropping to the sea. This was for me an incredibly peaceful spot to sit and enjoy the view along the coast. There is also a stand alone church bell here which, again, makes for good photographs.  Best allow around 45-60 minutes for this walk.

Another good walk is to take the Donkey Track up the hill from Patitiri to the Old Village (Hora). Again, allow about 45 minutes for this one. There are two roads leading out from the harbour -you need the left hand one (looking inland). Pass the shops and a few minutes later you will see a signposted track on the left. It's quite steep in parts but not too hard going. Some way up you pass some pens of assorted farm animals and later a paddock with some mules and a Shetland pony (or something looking very like a Shetland pony).

The track comes out onto the main road and just follow that for a few yards into the Old Village.

The Old Village became one of my lunchtime destinations with some tavernas that had seating under trees to provide some welcome shade. A good place to enjoy a cold Mythos and something to eat. If you like dogs you're in luck here as two village dogs liked to do the rounds of the tables. One sitting at my feet and the other licking my arm at regular intervals. The village itself has lots of narrow streets and lanes to explore and a number of churches. There is also a good observation spot where you can enjoy the view down to Patitiri.

After lunch one day I took the walk to the summit of the Kalovoulos Mountain. Just continue to follow the road that led you into the Old Village and past the village cemetery. Carry straight on until you get to a signposted track on the right. A few bits of this walk involve a bit of a scramble but otherwise it is easy going as you gradually ascend the mountain along a good path through pine trees. As you get higher there are some great views and photographs of the Old Village to be had (late afternoon is the best light for this). Eventually the track comes to an end and you will just see a lot of rocks with a sign pointing to the summit. This bit is a scramble as you negotiate the rocks but you will quickly reach the summit which is marked with a concrete post. If you then head towards the cliff edge you will find a wooden shelter with seating where you can enjoy the view of nearby Skopelos island. On leaving the shelter you will find that the scramble over the rocks wasn't required -there's an easy pathway back to the track down (bear left at the Summit sign to find it).

View to the coastline near Agii Anargiroi

A good option for an excursion whilst on Alonissos is to take the Flying Cat (catamaran ferry) back to Skopelos or Skiathos. Be aware though that to have any worthwhile time there you will need to get the first ferry of the day (currently circa 6.30am). I took this to Skopelos -returning on the 3.00pm Cat (giving enough time for plenty of photography and lunch). Make sure you have a return ticket, I got sold a one way one in error. Well, I hope it was in error! Luckily I realised before departing and was able to get the return added.

Cockerel Count on Alonissos is ranked as Medium. Where I was staying there wasn't the en-masse dawn chorus of crowing but there were,nethertheless, plenty to be heard generally. Unusually, Ducks and Turkeys featured quite strongly here as well.

Goatiness on Alonissos also ranked as Medium. There were some in a pen on the Donkey Track but, much better, a couple in the Old Village had a small herd which they walked down the road to feed on bushes. I also encountered a family of goats wandering on the Kalovoulos mountain. I'm told there are more to be seen at the other (less inhabited) end of the island.

Alonissos - a little star of an island and right up there in my top three favourites. Regards, David.