Nisyros 2015 (Dodecanese)

A line of Octopus at Mandraki on Nisyros island

Whilst staying on the island of Halki for the third time in June 2015 (see previous post) I decided that, as previously, I would take a day trip to Nisyros island to experience yet again the chance to walk in a still active volcano crater.

The only current way to do this (as far as I know) is to take the Dodekanisos Seaways fast catamaran Dodekanisos Express which makes a twice weekly round trip from Rhodes to Kos with stops at  Halki, Tilos and Nisyros on the way. Just get your tickets in advance from one of the agents on the harbour front such as Zifos Travel (agents for Olympic Holidays). You could book online yourself I suppose providing you had access to a printer to print out your tickets. At just over 40 euros I was a bit surprised at the price - I'm sure it was a lot less last time - but do look out for special offers that Dodek Seaways run from time to time.

Old stone tower on Nisyros

From past experience the ferry will probaly leave Halki around 10 (so not too early a start) and be back around 5 (just in time for a glass of Retsina/Mythos).


This really is a great trip as the catamaran is fast and powerful, cutting through the Aegean in no time. Best of all you can travel up on deck in the fresh air. Either at the stern where there is seating or for a real adrenalin rush head up to the bows of the craft to feel the rush of wind and sometimes sea spray hitting you in the face. Don't forget to take any hats off or they'll be gone in an instant! The first leg of the journey takes you to Livadia harbour on Tilos and is around 45 minutes. Unless it is misty you'll probaly still be able to see Halki far in the distance. After a very quick turn around the Express sets off again for the 40 minutes or so to Mandraki harbour on Nisyros.


I was glad to find nothing had changed at Mandraki and sure enough there was the familiar stand selling coach tickets for the volcano trip (at 8 euros these seemed a bit cheaper than I remembered). Chances are the trip won't depart right away and you will have some time to explore the town first -just be sure to return to the harbour on time. This gave me a chance to wander round the familiar streets taking lots of photographs. This is where I struck (photographers) gold when I spotted a whole row of Octopus hung up to dry on a line outside a taverna. I say gold because, though just about every guide to Greece seems to have an image of Octopus on a line, I had never come across this before -not on any of the Greek islands I have visited. Not a chance I was going to miss then!

Stefanos volcano crater on Nisyros island

Octopus and THAT stone tower thing (lighthouse/fort whatever) duly photographed it was back to the harbour to board the coach to the volcano. This is quite a ride as the coach climbs up the steep and narrow road and you get some great views. If you don't like heights you might want to sit on the other side of the coach. After a half hour or so we arrived at the volcano. Now here was something new to me. They've set up a ticket booth to buy tickets to visit the crater. Previously there was nothing there (apart from a cafe) and I realised that might explain why the coach trip was cheaper. Nothing drastic -around 2 or 3 euro but remember to have enough cash on you for this. I don't blame them at all - it's another way of getting some income into the Greek economy and is a pittance to pay for such a great experience.

Moon like surface of  the volcano crater on Nisyros

Some of the coach trips come equipped with a guide who will tell you all about the volcano. This trip didn't have one (perhaps that's the real reason for a price difference?) so I was just free to get on exploring at will. Ignore the signs warning you that you enter the crater at your own risk (another new addition!) and make your way down the (fairly) steep path to the crater surface. The surface was just as exciting as I had remembered, a barren alien like environment (indeed this was the "moon" location in the James Bond film Moonraker). Hot under foot and a powerful smell of sulphur wafting round you. Dotted around you will see yellow splodges of sulphur crystals and small blasts of hot steam will emerge from the ground. In the centre of the crater were deep fissures (fumaroles) full of gently bubbling hot mud.

Dodekanisos Express powers into Mandraki on Nisyros

In a second concession to health and safety a wire on stakes had now been placed around these. Really, there's nobody going to stop you going in and having a closer look (maybe a guide might?) but, anyway I'm British and respected that "fence"! Expect to get around 45 minutes or so to explore and photograph before heading back to the coach. Note you should only enter the signposted crater (Stefanos). There are a couple of other smaller craters near by which I was previously told are not safe to enter.

And so, after my third brilliant volcano experience it was time to head back to Mandraki and await the Express making its return run to Rhodes. Don't worry about missing this - the coach driver will be well aware of what time it leaves and get you there in plenty of time.

Having now done this three times I can say that it really is an unmissable experience and one that should tried if you are in this part of Greece. If you are on Rhodes, Halki or Tilos you can use my route via the Dodekanisos Express. If on Kos, I am sure there will be trips from there to Nisyros.

My Dreamstime blog on small Greek islands:

For anyone that hasn't realised, as well as writing about and photographing small Greek islands I also sell my images for commercial use through a variety of agents. One of these, Dreamstime, offers photographers a blog feature to promote their work.

Chapel near Emborio, Halki island

So, having just returned from two great weeks on the lovely island of Paxos (a new post on Paxos will follow here soon) what better to blog about on Dreamstime than the beautiful small islands of Greece. It's only a short generic piece  and features a selection of my images from Halki, Symi, Alonissos, Meganissi, Skopelos and Nisyros.
Feel free to take a look via this link: My Dreamstime blog on small Greek islands
You can also check out my full portfolio there for lots more Greek island images. Regards, David.

Tilos (Dodecanese):

Tilos Sea Star in Symi, 2011

I spent two weeks on little Tilos in August 2006. Situated between Rhodes and Kos, Tilos is some 14.5km long with a population of well under a thousand (actual reported figures vary). Staying at the harbour town of Livadia I was well placed to watch the comings and goings of various shipping -not least the islands very own fast catamaran ferry boat the Tilos Sea Star on which I had made the transfer from Rhodes. Built in 1989 in Norway it started service on Tilos in 2000. There's more about the Sea Star in my post about Symi where I saw it again in 2011 (pictured).

One of the big things about Tilos was that it was the first Greek island to ban hunting and shooting (circa 1987) and is subsequently a haven for wildlife -birds in particular. With over 100 reported bird species it has been designated an Important Bird Area, not to mention an EU registered Special Protection Area, so if bird watching is your interest Tilos may well be worth considering for a holiday.

Approaching Livadia

I don't know a lot about birds (other than the Herring Gulls on my window ledge) but I do know an elephant when I see it and Tilos has one of those. This was actually a prehistoric pigmy elephant whose bones were discovered in the Kharkhadio caves. You can visit these caves but, in 2006 at least, you couldn't actually go in them. What you can do is go to the island museum at Megalo Chorio (the Capital of Tilos) and see the assembled bones there. Megalo Chorio is a pretty village with a few tavernas and shops at the further end of the island from Livadia. There's an island bus you can catch to there. When I went I decided to walk back to Livadia which, though quite a long walk, was well worth it. Probaly also a good chance to look for all those birds if you know your stuff.

Ferry arrival, Livadia

Another outing (coach trip this time) was to the old monastery of Ayios Pandeleimon. You can have a good walk around here and look inside the monks cells. There is also a fresh water spring here which you can drink from or fill your bottle with. Inevitably, the water is said to have no end of health giving properties and I would probaly be able vouch for that if I hadn't just stuck to the Retsina provided for lunch on the trip!

Ayios Pandeleimon monastery

A highlight for me was a walk to the old abandoned village of Mikro Chorio which lies inland of Livadia (30 minutes at most). Here you can walk along narrow alleyways of derelict stone houses. You probaly won't see any/many other people while here but expect to encounter numerous goats and sheep also wandering round the same narrow alleyways. The predictable result was that myself and livestock managed to startle each other at every turn. Just be ready to step smartly out of the path of fast moving animals. Rather incongrously the only non derelict building here was a music bar/club that opened at night. I assume only in the peak season.  Whether this was also frequented by the goats and sheep I didn't get the chance to find out.

Whilst in Tilos, consider the opportunity to take a day trip to the island of Nisyros and the volcano there (see my earlier post). Certainly in 2011 Dodekanisos Seaways were running a scheduled service taking in Tilos and Nisyros (just under an hour long trip). As I previously wrote, it is a great experience.

Cockerel Count on Tilos ranks as Medium but the Goatiness rating gets a High (mainly thanks to my Mikro Chorio visit).

As ever, note the date of my visit as things can change. Feel free to comment by clicking on the comments box below. Regards, David.

Nisyros (Dodecanese):

Table for one at Mandraki

Nisyros isn't an island I have ever stayed on but have made two day trips to in 2005 and 2010 - both while staying on Halki island. Nisyros is readily reachable from Kos, Tilos, Halki and to a lesser extent from Symi and Rhodes (you can get there and back but my 2010 timetables for Dodekanisos Seaways fast catamaran service wouldn't allow for much time on the island - that could, of course, have changed).

Mandraki, the port town, has a number of tavernas (mainly on the seafront) and there are lots of little lanes and alley ways to explore. Standing high on the cliffs above the town is the Monastery of Our Lady Spiliani together with the ruins of a Crusader Knights castle.

However, the main thing of interest on Nisyros is the still active volcano. The last significant eruption was in 1888 but the volcano is far from extinct.

On arrival at Mandraki you should find one or more stands offering trips to the volcano. This wasn't expensive (circa 12 euro last time) for the 30-40 minute coach ride and an expert guide throughout

Attempting to fry eggs in a volcano

offering a wealth of information on the volcano (and Nisyros in general). Outside of peak season you could, I suppose, hire a taxi there and back (but do research this beforehand).

When you get there you can walk down into the moonscape like Stefanos crater and explore at will. Yellow sulphur deposits cover a lot of the base of the crater and the smell is pretty strong. Large fumaroles (fissures) are dotted about and have bubbling hot mud in them. The whole base of the crater is warm and from time to time jets of steam suddenly emerge from the ground catching the unwary visitor by surprise. The first time I went there somebody brought along some eggs and cracked them open on the ground. Well, it's not so hot that they fried - but did provide a good photo opportunity for everyone there!

Tourists walk in the Stefanos volcano on Nisyros

Near the crater is a small cafe where you can get drinks and a snack before heading back to Mandraki.

It was certainly a fantastic experience and well worth the effort to visit, especially knowing that the volcano could/will erupt again in the future - an organisation called Geowarn keep it under constant monitoring both on the ground and from space. Regards,
David.