Tilos 2016 (Dodecanese):

Livadia harbour on Tilos island

On my three previous visits to Halki I have always made a day trip to Nisyros and its active volcano. For a change this time I decided to visit Tilos where I had a two weeks holiday in 2006. Not only would it be interesting to revisit the island after some ten years but it would also be a good opportunity to get some stock photographs. The only images of Tilos I had were just of the harbour front taken from the ferry whilst en route to Nisyros (Tilos is roughly the mid point of the journey from Halki to Nisyros).

It was great fun stepping aboard the Dodekanisos Express yet again and powering over to Tilos. The initial part of the circa 45 minute journey takes you past Kania beach then right up the length of Halki. Pulling into Livadia harbour was, of course, very familiar but it felt strange to actually be getting off there. Really, nothing much seemed to have changed once I got to exploring the town. I had some fun trying to spot the apartment where I stayed years before. At the time this was above the office of my holiday company Laskerina (sadly no longer in existence). I'm pretty sure I found it but as it is now a private house couldn't be totally certain.

One of the highlights of my holiday there had been walking up to the old abandoned village of Mikro Horio

The abandoned village of Mikro Chorio on Tilos

(about 45minutes walk) so I made this my first mission there. I knew there was some sort of off road shortcut there but couldn't remember where to pick it up so just used the road. I found it coming back however. After leaving Livadia and just past the side turn to Ilidi Rock hotel the road turns at right angles to the left. At that point scramble up the bank on the right where there is a rough path heading upwards through a ravine. This cuts out a lot of the road journey and provides some very welcome shade.

The old village is fascinating to walk through and you may well encounter sheep and goats scrambling about in the narrow streets. Not everything there is derelict - the churches and chapels are maintained as is the music bar where holidaymakers can come at night (they run a minibus bus service to and from Livadia). Sadly, it doesn't open until 11pm so no chance of a refreshing drink!

Back down in the harbour I had a great photo opportunity when yachts taking part in the Rhodes Cup race started appearing round the headland. Just a few at first then more and more kept coming. Eventually they all moored up together in the small inner harbour. I'd never seen so many in one place before. From looking at the boats it was obvious that people of many different nationalities were taking part in the event.

Rhodes Cup yachts moored in Livadia on Tilos

What I didn't have time to do on this visit was to take the bus to the far end of the island to see the Capital of the island Megalo Chorio. You would need to be fairly confident of the return bus times if doing this to ensure you didn't miss your ferry home. You could walk back along the road which I remember as being roughly two hours (with breaks) having done this on my last visit.


It was certainly interesting and enjoyable seeing Tilos again and the abandoned village was just as much an experience as I remembered and very photogenic. I know that many people split their holiday between Tilos and Halki and the short distance between them makes this very easy to do. I will certainly be returning to Tilos next time I stay on Halki. There was a low Cockerel Count on this trip but the Goatiness rating is high due to so many being around the old village. Regards, David.

Halki 2015 (Dodecanese):

Prevelis ferry docked at Emborio

June 2015 saw me making my third trip to the beautiful little Dodecanese island of Halki. A full five years after my last visit in 2010 (review here:Halki ) I decided it was time to return and see if anything had changed there -for good or bad.

This was a holiday that nearly didn't get off the ground (literally). For many years now I have been in the habit of staying at an airport hotel (Gatwick Hilton to be exact) for the simple reason that this eliminates the stress of getting to the airport on the day with all the potential transport delays that can occur (and, trust me, I know all about that). With an 9.00am flight and check in from 7.00am all I had to do was a leisurely five minute walk to the desk. The problem was I didn't hear my alarm and woke up at 8.15. A mad dash ensued without even time for a coffee. Thankfully, an airport employee got on his radio and they agreed to get me on the plane (they even re-opened the check in desk just for me). The deal was, though, that I was going but they couldn't guarantee my luggage was. Instead of a four hour flight full of happy anticipation I had a miserable few hours working out scenarios of what to do if my case didn't arrive. To say I was delighted when my case was one of the first few out is something of an understatement. Now my holiday could begin!

On board the Nissos Halki ferry from the port of Kamiros Skala we drew ever closer until that final moment

Stone sculpture on Ftenagia beach

of swinging into Emborio harbour on Halki. There it all was -the bell tower (tallest in the Dodecanese), the harbour front, and above all the clock tower still showing the time as twenty past four as it has done for so many years now. It really felt like coming home to me as it was all so charming and so familiar. I've already posted about my accommodation at the Dorothea Studios which had a magnificent view right over the harbour -it really exceeded my already high expectations from the brochure pictures. Needless to say my first priority was an outing to one of the three small supermarkets to stock up on essential items like Retsina where I was pleased to find the generous sized 1.5ltr bottles available. Sitting on my balcony with a glass of the piney stuff and looking over the harbour was about as good as it gets and continued to be for my two weeks there.

One of my favourite short (about 40 minutes) road walks on Halki is the one to Kania beach. Take the main road out of Emborio towards Pondamos beach and then the road to the right just past the school. This climbs steeply taking you past some strange industrial looking vehicles. I've since found out (thanks to the excellent Halki Visiting forum) that these are emergency electricity generators. Brought to the island, parked up and then never used -and never will be looking at them now. Less industrial, you also pass a field containing loads of wooden beehives all painted in the blue and white of the Greek flag. Now Kania was, in 2005 and 2010 a lovely deserted cove where your only company was likely to be a lizard or two. Not anymore! There are now sunbeds, umbrellas and a taverna and a handy bus service bringing Rhodes daytrippers up from Emborio in their hordes. It's not for me to be churlish -everyone has to make a living and I'm sure many more people now get to enjoy Kania as a result (and the taverna is said to be very good). It's just not for me anymore, sadly. But I still enjoyed the walk there and back even if I didn't venture onto the beach itself.

View of Emborio from the Dorothea Studios

Also on the Kania walk you will pass the new de-salination plant which converts seawater to fresh. This means that you will no longer see the several times a week visit of the water tanker boat from Rhodes. I rather missed that as well but on the plus side didn't find the water stop running in my studio like on previous visits.

No visit to Halki is complete without a walk up to the medieval Crusader Knights castle. Passing Pondamos beach just keep going as the road (Tarpon Springs Boulevard) climbs up from Emborio to the (nearly) deserted old village of Horio. In the old days it then involved some scrambling up a sort of path to the castle but in 2015 this was all changing with EU funded restoration work going on. The path up is now much easier and clearer. I found myself in what was clearly a building site with cement mixers and other equipment dotted around. The chapel was in the process (nearly complete I think) of being rebuilt but, sadly, couldn't get inside to take a look. Health and safety also get a look in with a new wall at the cliff side of the castle and proper covering over the very deep well. Back in 2005 you had the choice of plunging down the cliffs if you put a foot wrong or disappearing into the uncovered well. Think I preferred that but as it was very much a work in progress I'll reserve judgement.

New for me this time was a walk to Giali beach. Reach this by entering Horio village and taking a long

Renovation at the castle on Halki

winding dirt track downwards for about 40 minutes (longer coming back up!). Somebody has a house just above Giali and had chosen to position three less than friendly dogs either side of the track. Just tread a precision path between them and you'll be fine. This is quite a wild rocky cove and beach with pounding waves that I certainly wouldn't venture into but made for some interesting photographs.

Also new this trip was a walk up to the plateau high above Emborio. Just follow the road on from Horio. When I say "Just" be aware that it gets much steeper and harder going and I considered turning back a few times especially when turning yet another bend and seeing the road still going steeply upwards. However, finally reaching the plateau I was rewarded by another charming little chapel and the remains of an old stone windmill and best of all goats. Lots of goats -as I found out whilst passing a stone enclosure and snapped a twig. Cue startled animals bolting out from the enclosure while I stepped back in a hurry. That's as far as I went on this trip but the walk back down gives fantastic views down into the valley and down to Emborio in the distance.

Tarpon Springs Boulevard down to Emborio

As with my previous two visits I took a day trip aboard the speedy catamaran ferry Dodekanisos Express to Nisyros where, for the third time, I was able to walk in the still active volcano crater. I'll post about that in more detail in due course.

So there were some changes. Kania transformed beyond recognition. The castle being renovated. The ANEK Lines "big" ferry from Piraeus to Rhodes is now Prevelis and not the Ierapetra L (but still created just as much excitement on each visit). And other things were just the same as they always have been. The chickens were still clucking around in the road by the town cemetery. Pondamos beach has a lot more sunbeds but still the lovely excellent taverna. Costas is still a great place to enjoy a cold Mythos and toasted cheese sandwich while watching the world go by. Above all the peace, charm and tranquillity of a small Greek island (except for the ferry arrivals and the daytrippers -but they come then they go again). Halki is, without doubt, one of my favourite Greek islands and one to which I intend to return many times in the future.

Paxos 2014 (Ionian):



Small boats at Lakka

And so back to the lovely Ionian island of Paxos in June 2014. Paxos was only the second Greek island I had ever visited back in 2003 and I had always had fond memories of my stay there.

Things got off to an inauspicious start when I realised the train guard had inadvertly sold me a day return ticket -not one valid for two weeks. Not a good start but soon sorted out. Failing to get into my room at the Gatwick Hilton I was informed that the room wasn't ready yet and I had to haul my luggage back down to reception to get a new room allocated. It was just as well I was already in Greek Island mode and didn't let any of this bother me. Things happen, or in the case of my flight to Corfu didn't. At around three hours I'll admit it is not the longest of flights to Greece but nowhere had it said anything about no meal being served on the plane. I'd only had a snack at Gatwick assuming there would be lunch coming in flight.



Gaios harbour

Oh well, at least I would soon be stepping out into the glorious heat and sunshine of the Mediterranean (albeit hungry). That didn't go quite to plan either as on our final appoach to Corfu heavy rain started lashing over the aircraft. Luckily I had got a window seat this time so was able to see what happened next as just before touchdown the plane started lurching violently as we hit crosswinds over the runway (windsheer to use the jargon) before the pilot aborted the landing and we rapidly powered back into the skies. Some further thirty minutes of circling round Corfu followed before we finally made a perfect landing. I wasn't the only passenger carefully double checking my seat belt as we made the second approach! Far from stepping out into a wave of heat we stepped out into cloudy skies and large puddles of water on the Corfu tarmac.

Still, shortly aboard the fast Kamelia Lines boat for the 90 minute or so crossing to Paxos, I was able to sit outside in the bow area and enjoy the view ahead -which mainly consisted of dark black cloud. Eventually the captain blew the horn and indicated we should all come inside as we approached the storm. Being inside wasn't as bad as I expected as we got to watch the crew in action not least the impossibly glamourous young woman expertly steering our boat through the, by now, rolling seas. When lightning bolts started hitting the sea around the boat with a loud crack it just added to the fun (possibly not for those letting out screams each time).


Finally, after an eventful journey (apart from the non event that was lunch) I was able to open the shutters of my appartment in Lakka and step out onto my balcony knowing I was, at last, back on a small Greek island. Now all I needed was the Retsina (and food). Luckily the Bastas appartments/hotel (call it what you will -they do) are just a few yards walk from the harbour and its collection of tavernas, bars and several mini-markets so the Retsina and food dilema was quickly resolved. It turned out that the Bastas was right next to the appartments I had stayed in back in 2003 which gave me a glow of nostalgia every time I passed them.

I am pleased to say that nothing much in Lakka or the rest of Paxos seemed to have changed much in the eleven years I had been away. The island is densely packed with pine and olive trees and quite a contrast to the barren look of some islands. This makes Paxos ideal for walking as there is plenty of shade available when you want it. And I certainly did plenty of walking, accompanied by my camera of course.

Local bus in Loggos

One of my favourite regular walks was the road walk to Loggos which took me around 35 minutes each way. Take either of the two roads that lead inland from Lakka to the point where they both meet up. Loggos is down the road to the left here (it's clearly signposted). This is quite a steep road curving its way down to sea level and the pretty village/harbour at Loggos where you will find a number of tavernas and shops. Of interest in Loggos is the old stone factory building to the left of the harbour -complete with a very tall chimney. Now semi derelict, this very photogenic building used to be an olive soap factory. For a great view down onto Loggos follow the road that goes up and behind the factory. Ignore the turning to the left but carry on foward to what now becomes a narrow footpath leading to an old WW2 defence post. Just before the pill box there is a path to the right which takes you out to the headland of the harbour giving you a panoramic view down onto the village. This walk was also notable for goat sightings (just on the outskirts of Lakka) and, on one occasion, a pair of snakes (just outside Loggos). The only time I have ever seen live snakes on a Greek island.



Lakka harbour, Paxos

As well as the walks (I'll post more walk details later) do take a trip on the island bus which runs from Lakka to the capital of Gaios several times a day. For 5euros return this made for a fun outing and, as previously posted, you may get the spectacle of diners at Loggos having to vacate their seats as the bus negotiates the narrow harbour front road. When in Gaios turn left along the harbour front for a walk right up to the "new harbour" (where you will have arrived on the island). Just before reaching that look out for the, now closed Pegasus seaplane dock where you used to be able fly to and from Corfu. I would have liked to have tried that! As I said before, Gaios is much bigger and busier than Lakka and Loggos and whilst good for a day visit I was glad to be staying in lovely little Lakka.

The main beach at Lakka is Harami beach which you reach via a stone path at the left hand side of the harbour. This boasts an excellent taverna where I enjoyed a number of lunches of Saganaki and a cooling Mythos beer -with a great sea view. Another favourite lunch venue was the Albatross snack bar (better than it sounds) right where the path to Harami starts.


Paxos was everything I remembered from eleven years ago and more. Peaceful and friendly with lots of lovely walks to be had. The bad weather I encountered on arrival very soon passed and apart from the odd light shower (and a reported tornado -more likely a water funnel!) I enjoyed two weeks of glorious Greek sunshine.



Ilida II hydrofoil, Corfu harbour

My journey back to Corfu was this time on the fast hydrofoil Ilida II. Apart from the atrium like roofless centre of the craft you can also enjoy the fresh air and view from an open area at the stern -which was certainly where I spent my hour long journey. This was also good for getting photographs as we came into Kerkira harbour in Corfu.


Goatiness rating for Paxos still remains low as I only really saw the few outside Lakka -there's just too many trees to fit in the goats I suspect. Cockerel Count on this visit dropped from High to Medium (quite possibly because my rear facing appartment didn't really let me hear the dawn crowing as much as last time). I would have to place Paxos in my top four favourite Greek islands now and is certainly one I would seriously consider making a third trip to one day. Regards, David.


Tilos (Dodecanese):

Tilos Sea Star in Symi, 2011

I spent two weeks on little Tilos in August 2006. Situated between Rhodes and Kos, Tilos is some 14.5km long with a population of well under a thousand (actual reported figures vary). Staying at the harbour town of Livadia I was well placed to watch the comings and goings of various shipping -not least the islands very own fast catamaran ferry boat the Tilos Sea Star on which I had made the transfer from Rhodes. Built in 1989 in Norway it started service on Tilos in 2000. There's more about the Sea Star in my post about Symi where I saw it again in 2011 (pictured).

One of the big things about Tilos was that it was the first Greek island to ban hunting and shooting (circa 1987) and is subsequently a haven for wildlife -birds in particular. With over 100 reported bird species it has been designated an Important Bird Area, not to mention an EU registered Special Protection Area, so if bird watching is your interest Tilos may well be worth considering for a holiday.

Approaching Livadia

I don't know a lot about birds (other than the Herring Gulls on my window ledge) but I do know an elephant when I see it and Tilos has one of those. This was actually a prehistoric pigmy elephant whose bones were discovered in the Kharkhadio caves. You can visit these caves but, in 2006 at least, you couldn't actually go in them. What you can do is go to the island museum at Megalo Chorio (the Capital of Tilos) and see the assembled bones there. Megalo Chorio is a pretty village with a few tavernas and shops at the further end of the island from Livadia. There's an island bus you can catch to there. When I went I decided to walk back to Livadia which, though quite a long walk, was well worth it. Probaly also a good chance to look for all those birds if you know your stuff.

Ferry arrival, Livadia

Another outing (coach trip this time) was to the old monastery of Ayios Pandeleimon. You can have a good walk around here and look inside the monks cells. There is also a fresh water spring here which you can drink from or fill your bottle with. Inevitably, the water is said to have no end of health giving properties and I would probaly be able vouch for that if I hadn't just stuck to the Retsina provided for lunch on the trip!

Ayios Pandeleimon monastery

A highlight for me was a walk to the old abandoned village of Mikro Chorio which lies inland of Livadia (30 minutes at most). Here you can walk along narrow alleyways of derelict stone houses. You probaly won't see any/many other people while here but expect to encounter numerous goats and sheep also wandering round the same narrow alleyways. The predictable result was that myself and livestock managed to startle each other at every turn. Just be ready to step smartly out of the path of fast moving animals. Rather incongrously the only non derelict building here was a music bar/club that opened at night. I assume only in the peak season.  Whether this was also frequented by the goats and sheep I didn't get the chance to find out.

Whilst in Tilos, consider the opportunity to take a day trip to the island of Nisyros and the volcano there (see my earlier post). Certainly in 2011 Dodekanisos Seaways were running a scheduled service taking in Tilos and Nisyros (just under an hour long trip). As I previously wrote, it is a great experience.

Cockerel Count on Tilos ranks as Medium but the Goatiness rating gets a High (mainly thanks to my Mikro Chorio visit).

As ever, note the date of my visit as things can change. Feel free to comment by clicking on the comments box below. Regards, David.

Paxos (Ionian):

Gaios harbour, Paxos

Just a few miles off the coast of Corfu lies the charming small island of Paxos. I visited Paxos in 2003 staying in the village of Lakka at the northern end of the island. The village has a good selection of tavernas and bars and a lovely horse shoe shaped bay.Covered in olive groves Paxos makes for a good walking destination, though for various reasons I wasn't able to explore as much as I would have liked when I was there. From Lakka you can take the island bus which runs to the capital of the island Gaios (pictured) which had a more cosmopolitan feel with numerous boats and yachts moored up. On the way to Gaios you pass through the small fishing village of Loggos. This provides some entertainment as due to the narrow street everyone sitting outside the tavernas has to jump out of their seat and retreat to the side of the road to allow the bus to pass.


Tight squeeze for the bus at Loggos

Worth doing on Paxos is to take one of the round the island boat trips. The one I went on visited some large caves -actually taking the boat right inside. It then went to the very small satellite island of Anti Paxos for some lunch at one of the few tavernas there. There is little development on Anti Paxos although one or two of the specialist holiday companies sometimes offer accomodation there.On another excursion offered by the Friends of the Ionian we were able to visit a farm to watch the goats being milked followed by a demonstration and tasting of cheese making. This was followed by a visit to an old olive oil press and a talk about the history of olive oil production on the island. The trip finished off with a meal at a taverna and some traditional music and singing - including contributions from our coach driver/guide.

Lakka harbour, Paxos

Apart from the goats being milked I can't really offer an accurate Goatiness rating for Paxos due to the lack of off road walks. However the Cockerel Count ranked as high here (in Lakka) with a superb dawn chorus echoing around the valley leading down to the harbour. It came in waves -starting at one end of the valley and working its way round. Right up in my top two (with Symi) Cockerel Counts.
So Paxos, an authentic small island with lots of walking and photographic potential especially at Lakka and Loggos (Gaios was a tad too busy for me) and certainly on my list of islands to, hopefully, revisit in the future** Regards, David.

**Re-reading this post reminded me just how much I liked Paxos, so I am indeed heading back there in 2014! I'll publish a new post on Paxos in the future.

Symi (Dodecanese):

Looking down on Yialos harbour on Symi

Symi, 41km from Rhodes, is often described as having the prettiest harbour in Greece. That's certainly some claim but there is no denying how charming the pastel coloured neo-classical buildings around the Yialos harbour look.
I spent two weeks on Symi in June 2011 (well it would have been two weeks but flight/ferry timings meant an overnight stay in Rhodes both ways). Dissapointing because this is the only Greek island trip ever where I did not reach my destination on the same day.

I was lucky enough to have an apartment directly looking over the busy harbour which certainly provided plenty of entertainment watching the boats come and go - not least the Blue Star Ferries ship Diagoras (a vessel so large it manages to block most of the harbour off when in dock).

Yialos/Gialos (take your pick) has plenty of tavernas and shops and even an excellent Italian pizzeria and is certainly at the bigger end of what I define as a small island. It is, of course, all relative. Somebody used to the bigger islands such as Rhodes, Kos, Crete etc would regard Yialos as tiny. Things certainly got busy during early afternoons as numerous excursion boats pitch up with day trippers from other islands. There was even a burst of nostalgia when the Tilos Sea Star arrived - I had last been on that in 2006 (it broke down)*. However, after lunch and a look at the umpteen souvenir stalls that take up one side of the harbour they were all gone again.

High above Yialos lies the older village of Chorio.  You have three choices for reaching Chorio: the Kataraktis -a steep and rather slippery cobbled path/donkey track up the hillside (I had to sit down in the shade after tackling that one). Better to take the Kali Strata a series of some 350 steps which start in the town centre and twist and turn up the hillside with old houses (shade!) on either side. There are even a couple of handy tavernas on the way up if you fancy a rest.
The third route is to simply follow the main road up. Not, on the surface, very appealing but as you get higher there are great views (and photos) to be had looking down onto the harbour. There is also a bus available (timings varying).
Chorio, is a mass of little alleys and paths amongst the old houses and great fun to explore. You'll probaly get lost at some point but you are never far away from civilisation. There are also a number of tavernas up there as well.

From Chorio you can walk the road down to Pedi Bay, a pretty little harbour with a few boats and several tavernas. The bus calls there as well.

Yialos at night on Symi

Back in Yialos, I walked round the left hand side of the harbour where there is a boat building/repair area with a number of old boats piled up. I was fascinated by a fairly large sized former excursion boat called Lazy Days. It seems it has been beached there for years due to some kind of ownership dispute and is slowly falling apart. The signs on the boat advertise Moonlight Cruises and trips to Lindos (Rhodes). If it hasn't totally collapsed by now its probaly still there.

Continuing on from Lazy Days you can take the coast road passing Nos Beach (the small "town" beach) with a taverna and sunbeds. The road gives good views of the rocky coastline and after around 30 minutes you reach the beach and harbour of Nimborios. Again, there is a taverna here.

Looking down to Yialos village on Symi

For a change of scene you can take a day trip to Turkey (offered by various boats in the harbour). Symi is only just off the coast of Turkey so it's a short journey. Sadly, I missed this opportunity as I only had a few weeks left on my passport. You are required to have at least six months validity to enter Turkey. I'm not sure why this matters for a day trip -but never mind.

There are lots of boats/water taxis which will take you to beaches further along the Symi coast and to the monastery at Panormitis. Now, this is where I missed out and didn't take any of these. I'm not really a beach person and didn't want to be stuck on one all day waiting for the return pick up. Poor research was my mistake here as I failed to realise that these beaches would have been a good launch for interesting walks and worse still, this is where all the goats are. Lots of them. On the beach. My Goatiness rating for Symi would have been extremely low based on just one goat (in a paddock at that) in Yialos. But I would have been wrong. Not wrong on the Cockerel Count though - Symi ranks as high with a truly spectacular dawn chorus of crowing echoing around Yialos. Possibly the best I have ever heard anywhere (we'll overlook the one that couldn't crow properly and just issued something akin to a scream). Regards, David.

Tilos Sea Star at Yialos harbour

* The Tilos Sea Star is actually a superb fast catamaran of which the island of Tilos are rightly proud. It didn't break down for long and actually we were just relieved we hadn't ploughed into a dolphin or something.

Alonissos (Northern Sporades):

Three mules posing by the donkey track

I must admit until I booked my first holiday there in 2012 I had never even heard of Alonissos - despite being a self confessed Greek island lover. A week in September 2012 and two weeks in June this year have put Alonissos right up there in my favourite islands list. Probaly the word "authentic" is the one I am searching for. Unpretentious might be another.

From the harbour at Patitiri (arrival point for most visitors) to the dense pine forests, everything about this lovely island feels slighly understated - the 3000 or so population know what they have here and don't seem to feel the need to shout about it too much. Of course, in season there are some concessions to tourism with a few excursion boats advertising their trips (mainly to the National Marine Park of which Alonissos forms a part) but otherwise that's about it.

15th century chapel at Agii Anargiroi

One of my highlights on both visits was to take the walk to the two small chapels at Agii Anargiroi. From Patitiri take the road to Votsi. Go past the turning on the right that takes you down to the beach and a few minutes later there is a turning on the left signposted for Agii Anargiroi. This is a small road that traverses the island from coast to coast. After about 15 minutes you will see a road on the left signposted for Tsoukalia beach. Turn down that then almost immediately take the smaller track branching off to the right. This is a wonderful walk through a dense pine forest (note the numerous containers attached to many of the trees for collecting pine resin). You will eventually reach a house with a great view down to the coastline framed by olive trees - an excellent spot for photographs (pictured). Pass the house and climb a few steps and you are now on a woodland footpath which will lead you to Agii Anargiroi. The two chapels (one 15th century the other 1940s) are perched right above steep cliffs dropping to the sea. This was for me an incredibly peaceful spot to sit and enjoy the view along the coast. There is also a stand alone church bell here which, again, makes for good photographs.  Best allow around 45-60 minutes for this walk.

Another good walk is to take the Donkey Track up the hill from Patitiri to the Old Village (Hora). Again, allow about 45 minutes for this one. There are two roads leading out from the harbour -you need the left hand one (looking inland). Pass the shops and a few minutes later you will see a signposted track on the left. It's quite steep in parts but not too hard going. Some way up you pass some pens of assorted farm animals and later a paddock with some mules and a Shetland pony (or something looking very like a Shetland pony).

The track comes out onto the main road and just follow that for a few yards into the Old Village.

The Old Village became one of my lunchtime destinations with some tavernas that had seating under trees to provide some welcome shade. A good place to enjoy a cold Mythos and something to eat. If you like dogs you're in luck here as two village dogs liked to do the rounds of the tables. One sitting at my feet and the other licking my arm at regular intervals. The village itself has lots of narrow streets and lanes to explore and a number of churches. There is also a good observation spot where you can enjoy the view down to Patitiri.

After lunch one day I took the walk to the summit of the Kalovoulos Mountain. Just continue to follow the road that led you into the Old Village and past the village cemetery. Carry straight on until you get to a signposted track on the right. A few bits of this walk involve a bit of a scramble but otherwise it is easy going as you gradually ascend the mountain along a good path through pine trees. As you get higher there are some great views and photographs of the Old Village to be had (late afternoon is the best light for this). Eventually the track comes to an end and you will just see a lot of rocks with a sign pointing to the summit. This bit is a scramble as you negotiate the rocks but you will quickly reach the summit which is marked with a concrete post. If you then head towards the cliff edge you will find a wooden shelter with seating where you can enjoy the view of nearby Skopelos island. On leaving the shelter you will find that the scramble over the rocks wasn't required -there's an easy pathway back to the track down (bear left at the Summit sign to find it).

View to the coastline near Agii Anargiroi

A good option for an excursion whilst on Alonissos is to take the Flying Cat (catamaran ferry) back to Skopelos or Skiathos. Be aware though that to have any worthwhile time there you will need to get the first ferry of the day (currently circa 6.30am). I took this to Skopelos -returning on the 3.00pm Cat (giving enough time for plenty of photography and lunch). Make sure you have a return ticket, I got sold a one way one in error. Well, I hope it was in error! Luckily I realised before departing and was able to get the return added.

Cockerel Count on Alonissos is ranked as Medium. Where I was staying there wasn't the en-masse dawn chorus of crowing but there were,nethertheless, plenty to be heard generally. Unusually, Ducks and Turkeys featured quite strongly here as well.

Goatiness on Alonissos also ranked as Medium. There were some in a pen on the Donkey Track but, much better, a couple in the Old Village had a small herd which they walked down the road to feed on bushes. I also encountered a family of goats wandering on the Kalovoulos mountain. I'm told there are more to be seen at the other (less inhabited) end of the island.

Alonissos - a little star of an island and right up there in my top three favourites. Regards, David.